Monday, May 31, 2010

RED HOT WINGS






Such a fantastic extended family weekend. So many meals to cook, so many great cooks in the house and so little time! Here baby bro mans the grill for his hot wings, a double dipping situation in which the wings slow smoke for a while, then are dipped in a hot sauce, butter, lemon mixture--then go back on the grill, then are dipped again before a final grilling. The rest of the meal was a patchwork: left-over broccoli Francese, Lousianna tomato salad (tomatoes brought from Baton Rouge bro), bruschetta. The generations gathered and I love it that way--
ages 2 to 80 hanging out so naturally.

Saturday, May 29, 2010

ROASTED RED PEPPERS FOR DAYS





If you take some time, about half an hour to roast 5-6 red peppers, peel, cut into strips, saute lightly in olive oil with sliced garlic then you will have a gift in your fridge that just keeps giving. Here is but one three day plan. The main thing to remember is this: start with really fresh peppers (not dried out), broil or roast in the flame until fully blackened. Place in a plastic or paper bag for 10-15 minutes to steam off the skin before peeling.

Day 1: a bowl of these peppers, served as a side with broccoli and sliced flank steak.

Day 2: The peppers flavor some fish fillet, along with fresh basil and caper butter. All wrapped up in parchment paper, it takes 8 minutes at 400 degrees to cook.

Day 3. As a bruschetta topping-with and without sliced pork tenderloin

Thursday, May 27, 2010

Am visiting with Rose. We had this dressing on our salad made by its inventor, Rose (with her special touch)-yum. This is a fantastic salad dressing. Make it in an old mustard jar and keep it on hand as all those fresh garden greens start coming into the market or poking up in your garden.

Makes 1 cup

  • 1 tablespoon minced shallot or garlic
  • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
  • 1 teaspoon light-brown sugar
  • 3/4 teaspoon coarse salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Directions

  1. In a clean jar, mash together the shallot, mustard, brown sugar, salt, pepper, and Worcestershire sauce.
  2. Pour in the vinegar, lemon juice, and olive oil. Cover tightly and shake well to combine and emulsify. Add salt and pepper to taste. Use immediately or store in the refrigerator.

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

WHEN YOU THINK THERE'S NO FOOD IN THE HOUSE TO COOK




It happens to all of us. We get home-from work or whatever. You think you have no food , no plans but its 7:00, there are hungry people around you and even if you order pizza or Chinese, it'll take too long. The guys were defeated and I almost too but I just can't eat cereal for dinner. So, here's were the pantry comes in handy. There seems to always be pasta in there. In the fridge? Not so many options except a half a red cabbage. Bacon, too is always in the fridge, onions too and even if there was nothing else this would have worked. But, here's how it goes. In olive oil goes the chopped onions, sliced bacon and a good hit of hot chili flakes. Cook until the fat is rendered. Add 2 cloves minced garlic and about a teaspoon of julienned lemon rind. Add shredded cabbage, cook until tender and soft. Add handful of currants (they were in the freezer, could of been golden raisins or not at all). But the sweet note was good. Next, deglaze with red wine vinegar. Cook down. Meanwhile boil the pasta, reserve some water and add it to the cabbage. Add some milk or cream and a bunch of grated Parm. Toss. I drank a glass of wine with it--an Argentinian Sauvignon Blanc. Value, flavor deliciousness. I try to keep a mixed case of wine in the cupboard for cooking and drinking.

Monday, May 24, 2010

RIB DINNER






Here was the deal. I'd get ribs--enough for everyone, meaning one rack per person (an investment). That's all I had to deal with shopping-wise. In this house you don't even want to cook ribs unless you're SURE they'll be enough. The rest of the meal was filled in from what was in the fridge: cabbage, green and red, random veg (celery, cucumber, tomato)-I always keep cornmeal in the freezer (cornbread) and the avocado was pure luck. We had several and they happened to be ripe. We are still in experiment mode with the big green egg grill and decided to cook at 225 for 2 hours. These ribs are St. Louis style-bigger and meatier than the baby backs but still more refined than regular pork ribs. They were really delicous but could have even used more time on the egg. The rub is crucial--the balance of seasonings. And, if you do it right you do not even need BBQ sauce although I still serve it. I like the Dinosaur BBQ sauce, but--of all the mass commercial brands--Bulls Eye seems to rank here. And, one other thing I learned in Texas this year. Take a white onion, slice it and soak in cold water. THe water pulls out the strong flavor yet crisps it up. So, when you take a bite of the hot spicy meat and then a nibble on the cold crispy (mild) onion--you have a taste combo that you will end up craving! We had enough of everything including food--the vibe all around, a good one.

Saturday, May 22, 2010

GRADUATION WEEKEND






See the awesome food/entertaining June issue of Martha Stewart Living http://images.marthastewart.com/images/assets/flash/magazine_june/MSL_0610_COUPON_hrzntl.pdf. It contains the story of our first born sons college graduation from the University of Vermont. I fell in love with Vermont when he first started going there and went every chance I got. Burlington, where its located, on Lake Champlain (one hour drive to Montreal)--is a beautiful part of the world. The is so much about it that's cool. If you can visit or live there--you'd be lucky. Natural beauty with all 4 seasons offering up something. The local food scene is second maybe only to California. Cheese makers, purveyors of every manner of vegetable, meat-raised to the cleanest standards. Its a cultural place-great for music, art and literature. Can't say enough about VT.

Meanwhile, at Shelburne Farms about 20 minutes from Burlington in Shelburne we had this absolutely fun as hell party. The MSL crew who made the story (James, Sarah, Laura) and graduate and family are pictured at the Inn at Shelburne Farms where we stayed, a wonderful old Inn to visit on the property. Grandma Rose is the beauty. The party on Saturday night took place at the huge Coach Barn on the property. The graduation on Sunday (surrounded by brothers, cousins, aunts and uncles too) and was followed by some family hang time in Burlington. See the total story with how-to do it with recipes and other party ideas (there were multiples of the beautiful arrangement above). I really recommend this type of party for grads of any age.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

TECHNO-GLITCH AND MORE





Somehow--the last blog post was a strangely cut off review from Stephanie about Mad hungry which I attempted to post because I loved it. Here is the actual link http://www.thegoodtastereview.com/. Sorry for any frustrations.

Meanwhile--here at a Thursday, post-meal rest after a long work week are a couple of things.
First off--in one of the few lunch outings I permit my self to attend on a work day, the one today was for the release of The Frankies Spuntino cookbook http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_0_15?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=frankie%27s+spuntino&sprefix=Frankie%27s+Sputi, in Brooklyn. It was glorious: a delicious, Italian style garden lunch along with the artisan crew who also made Mad Hungry. And then afterwards, moving from Carrol Gardens to Bed Stuy -Brooklyn, our afternoon radio show, Eatdrink on Sirius 112 featured Craig Samuel's from the awesome "new york style barbecue" joint, The Smoke Joint http://www.thesmokejoint.com/. But, our BBQ chit chat got quite sidetracked on The Pig bar, which is next door and boasts a rocking supply of Bourbon--so many varied differences that it's worth investigating in a taste test. I liked talking bourbon and barbecue--two of my favorite digestibles.

But, at home tonight, it's 6-ingredient spaghettini (garlic shaved Goodfella's-style, olive oil, pepper flakes, tomato paste, parsley and chicken stock) AND a good Veneto born Soave white wine with two of the guys. Quiet, chill, winding down. It's what's really good.

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

LOVE THIS REVIEW AND MORE MAN WOMAN TALK

“Mad Hungry: Feeding Men and Boys” + Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookies

by SAMANTHA TACKEFF on MAY 17, 2010 · 2 COMMENTS

in COOKBOOKS

Mad Hungry

If you're new here, you should subscribe to our RSS feed or get updates by email. Thanks for visiting!

One of the most common requests I get atOmnivore Books is for really useful cookbooks: easy (but not boring) recipes – with pictures please! – for relatively healthy food that would be good for someone either starting a family, wanting to learn how to cook, or just looking for something to get excited about. I’m pretty sure I’ve found the perfect one: Mad Hungry Feeding Men and Boys is one of the best cookbooks I’ve come across in the past year. “Just ignore the title!” I say, pleadingly when the customer gives me a skeptical look- this book is for EVERYONE. And after about 45 seconds of flipping through it, they are sold.

Usually when I pick up a new cookbook, I read it through, cover to cover, and then maybe make a recipe or two. I keep cookbooks for inspiration, but rarely stick to the details – it’s just adding to my body of knowledge and helps to make me a better cook. In the few months that I’ve had this cookbook, though, I’ve been inspired to pick it up again and again, cooking more than a dozen of its recipes. And every one of them has turned out deliciously.

Mad Hungry has even taught me new tricks in the kitchen. Each page of this cookbook is filled with those ingenious steps that you feel like slapping yourself for having not learned sooner. This book is about good food, empowering your family to cook, and passing down cooking skills that would otherwise leave our cultural consciousness.

“Cook for the men in your life and teach them to cook for themselves”

When I first came across Mad Hungry – Feeding Men and Boys I was a little skeptical. Ok, really skeptical. I went to a women’s college, and anything that suggests catering to men immediately alerts my “is it sexist???” alarm. But after thinking about it – having grown up with lots of boys and currently living with a hungry man – I will concede that they require a lot more food, and won’t settle for say, a bowl of roasted broccoli for dinner. And the author has great primary experience as the mother of three teenage boys. Feeding a family takes skill and experience, and this book will help you get there.

In addition to being a mom, Lucinda Scala Quinn is the Executive Food Director at Martha Stewart Omnimedia and is passionate about teaching. It takes just a glance at the organization of this book to know you are in capable hands. The beginning starts with the“Ten Tenets”, what Quinn calls an action plan for how and why to feed your family. The book is then organized into useful categories – “Tools, Flavors, and Theories” – a crash course on kitchen tools, shopping, creating a pantry, meal planning, and enhancing your cooking, and then breaks down into aptly titled: “Breakfast – The virtue of a thankless task”,“Lunch – It really matters”, “What’s for Dinner? The most burning question”, and finally “Down-home Desserts – they’ll take it any way they can get it”.

Here are some of the recipes I’ve tried:

Breakfasts:

Blueberry Bran Muffins (p.49): These have been great for both breakfast and afternoon snacks. A perfect combination of moist muffins that aren’t too sweet and pack a healthy punch, I had no problem making these as suitable replacement for an on-the-go meal. They also lasted well for a whole week. Another time I made the Creamy Spiced Oatmeal (p.36) for breakfast, and found it incredibly satisfying. I also made myself theSpiced Chai Lattes (p.58) a few times, which I consumed both in the morning and the evening with great pleasure. Quinn has several other delicious-looking recipes for drinks in her book, which I’m fairly sure I’ll be making soon!

Lunches:

One cold afternoon, I cracked out Quinn’s recipe for Lentil Vegetable Soup (p. 87) and was charmed by the deep flavors and crunchy topping of home made croutons. I’ve also made a few of her salads – a.k.a. “Boy Salads” – including the White Bean Salad (p.100)(pictured above), featuring a recipe for a very useful Rose’s Vinaigrette (p.96), which I’ve made more than a few times and keep extra of in my fridge.

Another day I made her Chinese Celery Salad (p. 103), a perfect use of celery served as a vegetable rather than a garnish (i.e., a saving grace when I have extra celery in my farm box). I ate it with her Cold Sesame Noodles (p.104), another winner.

Dinners:

Quinn dedicates a whole section of her book to chicken (she has two pages of ‘chicken answers’ to common chicken cooking questions) and I’ve tried quite a few of the recipes. My favorite was the Flat Roasted Chicken (p.120) – I did it with a half chicken from the market (did you know that you can buy a half chicken? I did not), roasting some potatoes, shallots, and carrots in the same pan. I’ve also made the Baked Chicken with Honey-Whole-Grain Mustard Glaze (p.122) , a recipe created by one of her sons, and eaten it with the Spiced Sweet Potato Wedges (p.200) (see the picture below). Then I made the Vinegar Glossed Chicken (p.129) and served it another night over some creamy polenta.

On a night I was craving seafood, I cracked out her recipe for Shrimp Scampi (p.172)on whole wheat shells, served with her recipe for Caramelized Cauliflower (p.202). If you haven’t been cooking caramelized cauliflower, it’s the most rewarding thing: toss cauliflower with a little bit of olive oil, salt, and pepper, and place it in a 425 degree oven for 30 minutes, turning mid-way through. It’s crispy, sweet, and unlike anything else. It will convert even the cauliflower haters, I swear.

And on the advice of my friend Kristin, I went ahead and made the Pork Chops with Apples (p.162) even though I rarely make pork chops – and the use of spiced cider in this dish made it a smashing success.

Dessert:

Of Quinn’s desserts, I made the Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookies (p. 252) (see note and recipe below).

The good:

  1. The author runs not only a busy test kitchen at Martha Stewart, but holds the helm of a busy home kitchen too. Her tips and tricks are tried and true, and will help anyone who picks this book up become a more successful cook.
  2. This is home cooking for the modern kitchen – the variety of flavors and ethnic influences in here are refreshing – ranging from classic American cooking to Mexican, South Asian, or fusion such as an Italian-Greek twist on a Korean specialty called “Paulbimbop”.
  3. Mad Hungry: Feeding Men and Boys is a well designed hardcover cookbook with beautiful photos, excellent design and an easy to read layout. This is a cookbook that you want in your kitchen both for how it looks and how it performs. Bonus – makes for a great gift!

The bad:

  1. The title and broad concept of the book may be a hard sell. This is easily mitigated by flipping through the cookbook and actually taking a look at the contents.
  2. I’ve noticed one typo – actually in the cookie recipe below (she called for the dough to be dropped in teaspoons whereas it should have been tablespoons. Otherwise, every other recipe that I tried seemed correct.

Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookies Recipe, from Mad Hungry: Feeding Men and Boys

(page 252)

I often judge books on how well they present a classic dish, such as a chocolate chip cookie, and was happy to see Lucinda Scala Quinn offering us a recipe for an oatmeal chocolate chip cookie that is both delicious and has a healthy component (the oats). Although, given that I’ve eaten about eight of these over the past two days, it might cancel out the health component. This recipe makes a nice sized, slightly thin, crispy on the outside, chewy on the inside cookie.

Makes 24 cookies

  • 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 3/4 teaspoon coarse salt
  • 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened, plus more for the pans
  • 6 tablespoons granulated sugar
  • 6 tablespoons light brown sugar
  • 1 large egg
  • 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 1/4 teaspoon water
  • 1 cup rolled oats
  • 6 ounces semisweet chocolate chips (Note: I used Ghiradelli 60% Cacao Bittersweet Chips, a recommendation of America’s Test Kitchen for their superior chocolate taste and shape – and they’re slightly flatter because of a higher cacao butter content)
  1. Preheat the oven to 375 F. Butter or line 2 rimmed baking sheets.
  2. In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, and salt.
  3. In a large bowl, beat together the butter, sugars, egg, vanilla, and water. Add the flour mixture and stir to combine. Stir in the oats and chocolate chips.
  4. Drop by tablespoonfuls onto the baking sheets, spacing the dough 1 inch apart. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until lightly golden in color. Remove to cooking racks.

Cookie Baking Supplies:

If you bake a lot of cookies, or plan to start, invest in a few supplies that will make the effort much easier. Goodbye crusty old pan, and hello:

Quinn’s notes for Successful Cookies:

  • Space the cookies at least 1 inch apart on the baking sheets to prevent them from melding together during baking
  • Rotate the baking sheets halfway through to ensure even baking
  • Let the cookies cool on the hot baking sheets for one to two minutes before transferring to a wire rack

More reviews of Mad Hungry – Feeding Men and Boys:

Share this post:
  • Print
  • Digg
  • del.icio.us
  • Facebook
  • Google Bookmarks
  • LinkedIn
  • Tumblr
  • Twitter
  • Yahoo! Buzz
Never Miss A Review!

Keep up to date on the things you need to cook:

{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }

1sarah henry May 17, 2010 at 9:56 pm

Hey Samantha,

I wondered whether this book might make a good gift for Father’s Day from a son who loves to cook.

And now I know. I want that chai latte recipe for myself, too.

REPLY

2Mary May 18, 2010 at 4:08 pm

Great review, Sam! I love this book. I thought Mad Hungry should have won an IACP (so should have Andrea Nguyen, but that’s a different story). Here’s another one for the [good] column: the book lays flat so you can actually read each recipe. Also, if you haven’t, check out madhungry.com – her April and May posts are epic – one of my favorite food blogs. I met LSQ last year — so authentic, funny and charismatic. Finally, LSQ is a huge fan of Omnivore, but you and Celia probably know that already.

REPLY